The Gorges du Verdon are the deepest canyon in Europe and one of the most popular sites in France for domestic tourism. Somehow, they don’t seem to draw huge foreign crowds. Maybe the locals are purposefully keeping it a secret, because it’s the perfect mix of Provence charm and high-adrenaline adventure! This is a great add-on to a trip through the south of France.
Why you should go
You should visit Gorges du Verdon if:
- You want to explore areas of France where actual French people go on holidays
- You enjoy a mix of outdoor adventures and small villages
It may not be for you if:
- You don’t feel comfortable driving in France
- You hate being around families when you travel
Logistics
When to go
Between June and September. Most of the activities in the Gorges du Verdon take place in the water, so you’ll definitely want to go between when the water is pleasant enough to swim in! Note that August is when most French people take their holidays, so you can expect things to be very crowded. Thankfully, the area is huge so people naturally spread out – we went in August and didn’t find the crowds too overwhelming.
How to get there
Fly into Nice or Marseille, two major French airports. From there, you will want to rent a car as the gorges are not particularly easy to explore with public transport. The Gorges du Verdon are approximately a 2 hour drive from either Marseille or Nice.
Where to stay
Moustiers Sainte Marie and Castellane are the two main villages in Verdon, situated on either side of the canyon itself.
Moustiers Sainte Marie has been designated a Plus Beau Village de France, denoting the 500 prettiest villages in France. While the views over the lake are indeed gorgeous, the place is incredibly touristy. Expect inflated prices and throngs of tourists everywhere.
I highly recommend staying in Castellane instead. It’s not quite as scenic as Moustiers Sainte Marie, but it’s more relaxed and there are plenty of (cheaper) restaurants. The town is in the bottom of the valley, which makes for cool and pleasant nights in the summer.
If you are a larger group, we loved this AirBnB. it was the perfect spot to relax after all our adventures, thanks to the large terrace and jacuzzi.
If you are on more of a budget, there are lots of great campings. Don’t think that you need to sleep in a tent. In France, these are large communal campgrounds where you can rent out a small lodge and use shared facilities such as a swimming pool. Note that most of these places don’t have air conditioning, if you’re sensitive to heat. Some can also be overrun by summer camps in the summer. If you are looking for peace and quiet, I would recommend Camping Calme et Nature, which is smaller and a little further away from the main road.
What to do
Day 1: Lac de Castillon and Saint Julien du Verdon
Lac de Castillon, the lake right outside Castellane, features crystal blue waters and a nice, laid back atmosphere. Head to the aquatic center and rent a pedal boat for an hour or two to explore the lake (10-15 € per hour). The water is chilly (it comes straight from the glaciers!) but you’ll be glad for it in the summer heat. When you’re done, you can tan in the sun or order french fries and drinks.
Drive to Saint Julien du Verdon after you’re done swimming. This beautifully preserved Provence village is lovely to walk around and soak in the quiet Provence atmosphere. Make sure to walk all the way to the back of the village to check out the raisin drying house, once the primary economic driver of the region.
Day 2: Aqua trekking
Go for a full day randonnée aquatique (aqua trekking), which is in my opinion the best way to explore the gorges! This full-day adventure is a mix of canyoning, hiking and swimming. You’ll don a lifejacket and step inside the river. You’ll spend most of the day floating down the canyon. There will be rapids, as well as several (optional) opportunities to cliff jump into the water. It’s a really unique activity which I haven’t seen offered anywhere except Gorges du Verdon.
I highly recommend doing a full-day expedition so you get to see the full gorge. All operators follow the same route down the river, which is divided into two parts. The top part from the Pont de Tusset to the Couloir de Samson features milder rapids and is considered more family friendly. The bottom part is a little bit more of a thrill, though it doesn’t require any particular technical skills! The rapids just tend to be faster in parts.
If you want something more intense, you can also go on a full-day canyoning adventure. These largely follow the same route as aqua trekking, but also involve climbing up waterfalls and abseiling in a secured harness.
We really enjoyed our time with Aqua Bond Rafting, a small family run operation (40€/person for a half day, or 80€/person for the full day adventure). You can also book with them online via Manawa.
Day 3: Moustiers Sainte Marie and Lac Sainte-Croix
Today, drive across the gorge to explore the picturesque village of Moustiers Sainte Marie. Built into the cliff face, this village was once an important destination for pilgrims. Nowadays, it enjoys gorgeous views of the lake below it.
The drive from Castellane should take about an hour, crossing the canyon. Make sure to stop at the Point Sublime for some gorgeous views. In fact, stop as many times as you want to take it all in! Parking at Moustiers Sainte Marie can be a bit tough, especially in the high season. I recommend parking at this lot and walking the 10 minutes into town.
Plan a few hours to explore the small winding streets of the village, and climb up to the old church if you have the energy. If you’re feeling hungry, know that a lot of the restaurants in Moustiers Sainte Marie cater to tourists, so expect a worse price quality ratio than elsewhere. I recommend grabbing lunch at La Cascade, a bustling and affordable restaurant nestled against the waterfall.
When you’re done, head over to Lac Sainte Croix, the largest manmade lake in France. You’ll be drawn to its turquoise blue waters from afar. The beaches can unfortunately be quite pebbly, but the water is warmer than in Lac Castillon. I recommend setting up at the Plage du Galetas which has a couple of sunbeds for rent. They also offer very affordable wood-fired pizzas if you didn’t already eat in Moustiers Sainte Marie. If you fancy a more active afternoon, you can also rent kayaks, sailboats or windsurfs here!
Day 4: Rafting
Head back into the gorge for another adventurous day of whitewater rafting. Rafting in the gorges only takes place on Tuesdays and Fridays when the water department releases vast quantities of water to generate electricity. The Gorges du Verdon then turns into Class III and Class IV rapids.
You can do a half day or a full day rafting trip. I recommend doing the half day trip, so that you don’t repeat the section you covered with aqua trekking (40€/person for a half day, or 80€/person for the full day with Aqua Bond Rafting).
Day 5: Hike
For your last day, I present three hiking options to discover the beautiful Verdon region!
- Easy: Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc. Back when the region was under attack from the Moors, the population of Castellane hid at the top of the cliff face overlooking the village for over two centuries. You can visit the ruins of their settlement, or the beautifully renovated church. The hike takes about 2 hours to complete, and features beautiful views of Castellane and the valley.
- Moderate: Les Grès d’Annot. These unique rock formations strewn on a mountain near Castellane are a popular bouldering spot. You can do a shorter out and back hike (2h) or a longer loop (4h). Whichever you choose, don’t miss the incredible Chambre du Roi – a narrow section of the path where you are surrounded by cliff faces on all side.
- Difficult: Sentier de l’Imbut. This iconic hike will take you back to the Gorges du Verdon for stunning views above the canon. This is not for you if you have a fear of heights. There are some extremely steep, narrow, and exposed sections, particularly on the way back. Bring shoes with good grip, and do not undertake this hike if it has recently rained or the conditions do not look good in any way.
If you have more time
If you have more than 5 days in the Verdon region, here are a few more activities I did not get around to trying but which seemed like a lot of fun:
- Paragliding over the lakes (80€ for 20 minutes)
- Via ferrata in the canyon – a type of rock climbing very popular in Europe, where you use ladders and steel cables to explore otherwise inaccessible rock climbing routes (45-60€)
- Visiting Grasse, a town famous for its perfume industry (1h drive from Castellane)
What to eat
Castellane has lots of moderately priced French restaurants. Make reservations during high season, as it can be tough to get a table!
Here are a few we enjoyed:
There is a market every Wednesday on the Castellane town square with many fresh, seasonal products. Make sure to try some pistou (a local variation on pesto) and some tapenade (crushed olives). We loved the fresh market products so much that we ended up cooking at our AirBnB most nights.
The Maison de Produits de Pays right outside of town also has many local delicacies for sale, if you want to bring any culinary souvenirs back.
Conclusion
The Gorges du Verdon are in my opinion one of the most beautiful sites in France. I hope the itinerary above helps you plan your adventure here. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them in the comments!