The ultimate road trip through Oman

5 day road trip in Oman

I visited Oman on an extended layover, and was absolutely blown away. Yyou can expect jaw dropping landscapes, super genuine people, and very few tourist crowds. This is a criminally underrated destination and I’ve been singing its praises to everyone since going!

Read on for a 5 day itinerary, as well as some logistical advice for planning your trip.

Why should you visit Oman?

• The landscapes are absolutely incredible. From the wild coastline to the Jebel mountain peaks, without forgetting the Arabian desert, this was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited. 
• The people are incredibly friendly. Some of the many unsolicited acts of kindness I received in my 5 days: the hotel manager invited me to share a delicious dinner with her and the hotel staff. A local at Wadi Shab ran after me to make sure I didn’t step on a dangerous ledge, offered to take photos of me, and guided me up a waterfall. My driver in the desert invited me for coffee with his wife and took me dune bashing for free. People were just genuinely friendly and didn’t expect money.
• It’s super safe and easy to get around. I was a solo female traveler and never felt uncomfortable.
• Oman Air runs some great deals – visit an amazing country and get a cheap flight between Asia and Europe, all in onE

How long should you go?

You should budget at least 2 full days on a stopover so you can make it to Wadi Shab.I spent 5 days and squeezed in all the major highlights except Jebel Shams and the Ras al Jinz turtle preserve. If you want to see everything in Oman, I would recommend 8 days!

How expensive is it?

It really depends! I found some things in Oman to be incredibly cheap: local food, gas, car rentals, and entrance fees. On the other hand, lodging was relatively expensive and guides/drivers incredibly so. Here is roughly what I would budget:

• Lodging: free to camp, 50 USD/night for basic lodging (small room with A/C and private bathroom), 150 USD/night for a nice hotel (pool, large room)
• Car rental: 30 USD/day for a 2WD, 100 USD/day for a 4WD. You can fill your tank for 15-20 USD as of December 2022.
• Food: 3-5 USD for a local meal (simple wrap or rice plate), 20 USD for a sit-down restaurant with a view
• Activities: Most sites are free to enter (Wadi Shab, Sultan Qaboos Mosque) or charge <10 USD (Royal Opera House, Nizwa Fort).
• Guides: Full day guided trips start at 100 USD per person.

How safe is Oman?

Oman is one of the safest countries in the world. Violent crime is almost non-existent, and I found locals to be extremely friendly and helpful.

I never felt unsafe as a solo female traveler. No one stared at me or harassed me. Instead, people went out of their way to help me. I saw women and children walking alone at night. 

Like anywhere in the world, exercise basic caution (lock your car, don’t flash your belongings, don’t walk through empty alleys at night, etc.) but know this is a very safe destination!

How should you get around?

Renting a car is absolutely the best way to get around. The main sights are very spread out and there is limited public transportation. Taxis and drivers are also incredibly expensive.

The good news is that driving in Oman is as easy as can be:

• People drive on the right
• It’s easy to rent an automatic transmission car
• The roads are brand new and well signaled in English
• The drivers are generally calm and respectful
• Parking is usually easy to find
• Gas is very cheap

If anything, I found it easier to drive in Oman than in California!

Here are a few things to be aware of when you drive in Oman:

• Speed bumps are everywhere. Watch out for them on highway exits in particular.
• Follow the speed limit. You can get hefty fees if you don’t.
• Load up on gas before you head inland, as there can be long stretches without any petrol stations.
• Police sometimes perform random checks. This happened to me once and is apparently pretty common. Don’t freak out. Just show your ID and car registration and you’ll be on your way.
• Clean your car before returning it. Most cars are white (I’m guessing due to the heat) and the car rental companies expect you to return them clean. I had my car cleaned for 3 dollars here before returning it at the airport.
• Have your tires deflated at petrol stations right outside the Empty Quarter, if you are planning to drive in the desert!

I rented a 2WD car for 5 days on DiscoverCars for 145 USD. I’d never used DiscoverCars before and was a bit skeptical, but they had good reviews and were 50% cheaper than the rental agencies’ website. They matched me with Europcar. Europcar was very helpful, giving me a 6 hour extension for no additional fee, so would probably do this again!

Do you need to rent a 4WD in Oman?

It depends where you want to go. You will need a 4WD to get to any of the following places:

• Jebel Shams
• Jebel Akhdar
• Wadi Tiwi
• Desert camps in the Empty Quarter

I rented a 2WD because I was traveling solo and it was one third the price of a 4WD. I also did not have enough off roading experience to feel comfortable driving in the desert, even in a 4WD. It did mean I had to cut out Jebel Shams and pay for pickup from the hotel camp (80 USD).

If you are a larger group who can split the cost, I would recommend getting a 4WD for the added freedom. But if it’s out of your budget or you don’t feel comfortable with the offroad driving, you can still have a great trip with a 2WD!

What should you wear?

• Cover your shoulders and knees, regardless of gender. Oman is a fairly conservative country and you want to be respectful.
• Wear light fabrics because it gets hot! I wore my Indian cotton kurtas, which worked great. I saw many tourists wearing maxi skirts or hiking pants.
• You do not need to wear a headscarf if you are a woman. Most women of Omani origin will be wearing one, but 40% of Omani residents are of non-Omani origin and generally don’t wear a headscarf. You won’t be disrespectful or stand out.
• Dress more conservatively to visit mosques. The Sultan Qaboos Mosque requires both genders to cover their ankles and elbows, and women to cover their hair. You might want to carry a scarf for that purpose. If you don’t have proper attire, they will rent you traditional robes.
• Make a judgment call for swimwear. If you are in a public swimming area with locals, dress more modestly – wear a T-shirt and shorts over your swimsuit, regardless of gender. When I went to Wadi Shab, on the other hand, it was all tourists. All the women wore bikinis and all the men swimming trunks.
• Bring a jacket – it gets cold at night! This is especially true in the desert.

Day 1: Muscat

After landing in the modern Muscat airport, pick up your rental car and head for downtown.

• Drive along the scenic Muttrah Corniche. The Muttrah Corniche is a long, beautiful road along the coast. It’s especially striking at night. Set Google Maps to the Al Alam Palace, the residence of the Oman sultan. On the way, you’ll pass the Muscat fishing docks as well as the scenic Al-Mirani Fort, scenically lit up. You can’t visit the actual palace, but you can park your car and take photos outside. Turn the car around and set off for the Mutrah Souq.
• Explore the Mutrah Souq. Oman’s largest market is a maze, but feels much less hectic than other bazaars you might have visited. This is the toughest part of Muscat to drive around in, but there’s plenty of parking on the side streets. Park your car as close to here as you can. It can be hard to find an entrance to the souq; I recommend entering here through the gold section, then turning left and walking towards the main part of the souq. You’ll find hundreds of vendors selling you everything from gold jewelry to spices and perfumes! Get lost in the many alleys, and maybe buy a souvenir. 
• Dinner at Bait Al Luban. When you’re done with your shopping spree, pick up your car and head to nearby Bait Al Luban for a traditional Omani meal. The restaurant is a little pricey, but the setting is beautiful: you eat Omani food on traditional floor seating, high above the corniche. This is a great palace to try shuwa (marinated meat roasted in an underground pit) or khaliat nahal (Omani honeycomb bread).

If you have more time…

• You might be able to catch a performance at the Opera House – check the online calendar. Tickets start at 60 USD and usually sell out; formal attire required (they will rent you some if needed!)
• I’ve heard good things about the Daymaniyat Islands, a string of islands right off the coast of Muscat that are perfect for snorkeling. Half day tours start around 100 USD.
• Check out the Bait Al Zubair museum for a small, compact exhibit on Omani history and culture.

Day 2: Muscat and the coastal route

It’s time to leave Muscat behind (not after visiting a few attractions!) and to drive down the scenic southern coastal route.

• Visit the Sultan Qaboos Mosque. Kick off your morning at the largest mosque in Oman, inaugurated by Sultan Qaboos bin Said in 2001. The mosque is free to visit, but non-prayer hours are fairly restricted (8-11AM, closed on Fridays). Get there as early as possible to beat the crowds; parking is free and plentiful. Wander through the beautiful sandstone courtyards and make sure not to miss the grand prayer hall. You can learn more about the mosque or Islam in general at the library (they also serve free Omani coffee and halwa, a sweet jelly dessert)! Know that the dress code is pretty conservative, even compared to other mosques I’ve visited. Both genders should cover up to their ankles and elbows, and women should cover their hair. They rent appropriate clothes on site if needed.
• Grab an Omani breakfast. Right next to the mosque, stop at the popular Dukanah Cafe for a typical Omani breakfast. Get the breakfast platter, which comes with an assortment of traditional breads and spreads, and a steaming pot of Omani coffee.
• Visit the Royal Opera House. Last stop before leaving Muscat: the gleaming opera house. The beautiful mix of Arabic and Italian architecture was unveiled in 2011 with a production of Turandot. The only way to visit is on a guided tour, which is fairly short and runs every half hour (3 USD per person, pay on site).
• Swim in Bimmah Sinkhole. Time to leave Muscat behind! Set your Google Maps to Bimmah Sinkhole. As Muscat’s modern skyline disappears, it will be replaced by striking mountain tops and the ethereal blue of the Arabian Sea. It should take you about an hour and a half to reach Bimmah Sinkhole, a massive natural pool. This place isn’t quite as rugged as some of the later wadis you will explore, but it makes up for it by being very easily accessible. Park your car and make your way to the giant sinkhole, climbing your way down the stairs. The water is a little chilly, but you’ll welcome it in the desert heat! Note that this is a place popular with locals, so modest swimwear is required.
• Stay near Tiwi. Drive on for another hour along the coastal route. You can pull over at any point along scenic Fins Beach for a closer look at the sea. Stop for the night near Tiwi so you can visit Wadi Shab early in the morning.

If you have more time…

Wadi Tiwi is supposed to be another beautiful swimming spot about 45 minutes inland. You will need a 4WD to reach it. Wear modest swimwear as this place is popular with locals. Here is a short guide to visiting Wadi Tiwi.

Day 3: Wadi Shab and the desert

• Hike Wadi Shab. Get up early so you can beat the Muscat daytrippers and have the most beautiful site in Oman to yourself! Wadi Shab is a gorgeous desert canyon where you can swim up a secret waterfall. It takes about 3 hours to hike there and back; you can read my complete guide to the hike here. If you only visit one place in Oman, make it this wadi.
• Stop in Sur for lunch. Once you are back from your canyon adventures, it’s time to drive on south. Drive along the coast to Sur for about 1h, once the center of Oman’s maritime trade. The white buildings provide a striking contrast with the blue sea. You’ll probably be starving after your canyoning, so stop for a seafood lunch with a view at Sahari. I recommend the grilled fish of the day.
• Check out the Dhow factory. Across the road from Sahari, you can visit a functioning wooden boat factory for 1 OMR (2.5 USD). Don’t expect a guided visit – this is a functioning work spot – but it will give you a sense of the Omani economy and way of life before the discovery of oil.
• Drive to the Empty Quarter. Leave the coast and set off for Oman’s so called “Empty Quarter,” a massive desert that juts all the way to the edge of the continent. After a 1h30 drive from Sur on an empty highway, the sand dunes suddenly appear on the horizon. If you’re driving your own car, make sure to get your tires deflated at the Al Maha petrol station before entering the desert. Check into your desert camp for the night.
• Watch a desert sunset. Climb a sand dune for a gorgeous view of the sun setting over the endless dunes. If you’re not too cold, climb back up the dunes after dinner for a stunning night sky, hundreds of miles away from the nearest city.

If you have more time:

• The Ras al Jinz Turtle Preserve is about 1h south of Sur. When in season (May – September), you can see hundreds of turtles nesting on the beach in the evening and the early morning. Unfortunately, turtle nesting season coincides with the hottest time of the year in Oman, so I probably wouldn’t recommend planning your trip then – but if you somehow end up there that time of year, this seems like it would be a great experience! Here is a detailed write-up from someone who went.
• Wadi Bani Khalid is a swimming spot that was recommended to me by several locals. It’s not deep into a gorge like Wadi Shab, but it features a large pool you can actually swim in! It’s in between Sur and the Empty Quarter; add 1h of driving time. Wear modest swimwear, as this spot is popular with locals.
• If you have more time, Amur from Desert Heart (see lodging information below) also organizes crossings across the desert. You cross the desert in a 4×4 car and arrive to the southern edge of Oman, one of the most remote places in the world. You then camp by the sea hundreds of miles from civilization.

Lodging

Day 4: Desert to Nizwa

• Watch a desert sunrise. This is worth getting up early for, trust me. Sunrise over the desert is somehow even more magical than sunset. Walk around the dunes before it starts getting hot (don’t get lost!) then head back to your camp for breakfast. This is a great time to sled down the dunes, go dune bashing, or simply sip some Omani coffee and read by your tent.
• Visit the ruins of Ibra. When you’re ready to leave the desert behind, drive back through the desert to the al maha pump station. Head towards Nizwa by driving about 1h to Old Ibra, an abandoned city in the desert. Not much is known about the site, other than it was once the home of prosperous merchants before the trading post became abandoned. The ruins are pretty small, but there is also no one – you will really feel like you’ve been transported back into time.
• Eat in Ibra. Grab a meal before leaving Ibra, because it’s pretty deserted from here onwards. I had a simple but tasty meal at Naseem Mahout.
• Visit the Nizwa Fort. Drive another 2h to reach Nizwa, the second largest city in Oman. The main attraction here is the Nizwa Fort, built by the local Imam to protect Nizwa from desert raiders. Make sure to catch the stunning sunset on the terrace. You’re surrounded by the Nizwa market, the desert, and the Jebel mountains in the distance! The fort doesn’t have that much information, but it’s worth going through the various rooms for a sense of what life in an Omani palace used to be like. Don’t miss the gardens in the back. They house a traditional irrigation system, regular demonstrations of date syrup making, and a number of traditional Omani animals like the desert onyx.
• Walk around old Nizwa. The alleys around Nizwa Fort are somewhat touristy, but full of cute stores and fun to explore. Enjoy the cool night air before settling in for the night. I ate at Al Aqur Restaurant, which was a bit touristy/overpriced but had a nice view.

If you have more time:

Day 5: Return to Muscat

The time to leave Oman has come already! Drive straight to the airport from Nizwa – it’s a straightforward hour and a half drive. Make sure to clean your rental car of desert dirt before returning it, to avoid extra fees (I got it cleaned for 3 USD here). Grab lunch in the modern Muscat airport, then get to planning your next Oman trip.

If you have more time:

• Jebel Shams is the deepest canyon in Oman. I wasn’t able to go because I didn’t have a 4WD, which I somewhat regret as it is supposed to be beautiful. It’s about 1h30 drive up a steep road that’s made of dirt in the last few kilometers. Access may be cut off during rains. You can hike the Balcony Walk (beware – I was told it was quite strenuous), climb down into the canyon on the via ferrata route, or simply take in the views from one of the mountainside hotels.

Lodging recommendations

• Muscat: I stayed at the Sheraton Oman using my Marriott points. There are lots of surprisingly affordable chain hotels here (50-70 USD).
• Tiwi: If you are looking for a simple room, I loved the friendly manager and beautiful ocean views as Al Shumukh Guesthouse. It’s about 15 minutes further from Tiwi. If you are feeling adventurous, you could also camp on the beach. Wild camping is legal in Oman and very popular! Fins Beach was popular when I went there and was accessible by 2WD. Here is a longer guide to camping in Oman.
• Empty Quarter: Most of the desert camps are concentrated along one long opening in the dunes near Al Wasil.

• Budget: My driver to Sama al Wasil camp invited me for coffee at the Desert Heart camp that he had recently opened. I wish I’d stayed there instead! It’s a small camp (4 tents) run by a very friendly Bedouin family. The lodging is simple – no A/C, although you don’t really need it at night in the desert. I met one guest who was really happy, and it seemed like it would be a very memorable experience. They aren’t on any booking platforms, but you can reach out to Amur on Whatsapp (99006122 / 97371115) or Instagram to book a room.
• Mid-range: I stayed at Sama al Wasil Camp (150 USD/night, including dinner and breakfast). My “chalet” had A/C and was very comfortable. I loved the giant sand dune right outside the camp and the fact that they had a rope to help you climb it. On the other hand, the activities they organized were very expensive and the food was OK. I think this is a good option if you want comfort but don’t want to break the bank.
• Luxury: I heard good things about Thousand Nights Camp (250 USD/night). It’s located deeper into the desert, adding to the feeling of remoteness. It also has a pool and a broader range of activities on site than most of the camps.
• Nizwa: I loved the Omani Guesthouse. It feels like a hidden getaway: it’s tucked in an alley near Nizwa fort and features rooftop views and a lovely backyard (40 USD).

A step by step guide to visiting Wadi Shab

Wadi Shab is a breathtaking canyon featuring crystal-clear pools, cascading waterfalls, and lush greenery. One of the highlights is the Tiwi Cave, a large cavern that can be accessed by swimming through an underwater tunnel. This was my favorite stop in Oman! Read on for some advice to make the most of your day in Wadi Shab.

I recommend leaving as early as possible to avoid the day trip crowds from Muscat. The magic disappears when the cave is crowded with fifty other swimmers. The boat crossings start at 8AM – get there as close to that time as possible!

Step 0: bring the right gear

• Hiking shoes. The terrain is pretty rocky in parts, and I wouldn’t want to hike this in flip flops or sneakers.
• Hiking gear. It’s all tourists, so you don’t need to dress particularly modestly. I would still recommend a T-shirt, long pants and a hat to protect yourself from the harsh sun.
• Water shoes. It’s not a must have, but this will make it more comfortable to step across rocks in the river.
• Swimwear. This place is mostly frequented by tourists, so you don’t need to cover up. All the women were wearing bikinis and all the men swimming trunks when I went. I have heard there are more locals on weekends, so you might want to bring a T-shirt and shorts to swim in if planning to go then!
• Something to take photos in the water. The most beautiful views in the gorge are once you start swimming, so you’ll want something to capture the moment! I had my phone in a waterproof case. You could also bring a GoPro or a dry bag.
• Cash. You’ll need 1 OMR (2.5 USD) in cash to pay for the boat crossing.
• 2L of water. It gets hot in the desert!

Step 1: Drive there

Set your Google Maps to here and park your car. There were plenty of parking spots in the morning, but it had filled up by the time I came back. There are toilets and a coffee shop if you want to use those before you set off into the canyon.

Step 2: Boat ride

You will need to take a boat ride to cross the river. Just approach one of the locals standing by the parking lot. It costs 1 OMR (2.5 USD) for the round trip (bring exact change) and takes under 5 minutes.

Step 3: Hiking

Once you are on the other side of the road, start hiking! The hike starts off by following a paved road, but you’ll soon need to scramble across some rocks and the riverbed. It’s not always clearly marked. You can’t get too lost, though, as there’s only one way into the canyon. Look for cement steps or the irrigation channel if you can’t find the trail anymore.

It should take you 45 minutes to an hour to reach a sign warning you not to proceed further. There should be a long, shallow river starting there. Time to swim!

Step 4: Swim through the gorge

Leave your stuff by the rocks before getting into the first pool. You can hide it behind some of the reeds if you want, but everyone was leaving their stuff when I went and it felt pretty safe. 

Lower yourself into the water and start swimming upstream. It really feels magical to float in the water as you are surrounded by the canyon on all sides. You’ll need to get in and out of the river and scramble up the rocks a few times. The rocks can be extremely slippery. Proceed with caution!

You will eventually get to what looks like the end of the river. Don’t stop there! If you look closely, you will see that there is a small opening in the rock that leads to a cave. 

Step 5: Swim into the Tiwi cave

Only proceed if you are a good swimmer, as the water is deep from here onwards and there is nowhere to stand. Ask people coming out of the cave for current conditions, as there can be a strong current after heavy rainfalls.

If all looks good, swim through the narrow tunnel to be rewarded with a stunning waterfall hidden inside the cave, surrounded by stalagmites and an opening towards the sky. You’ll feel like you’re in an Indiana Jones movie.

You can easily swim behind the waterfall – look for a small opening in the rock on the left hand side when you are looking straight at it. You can swim back out underneath the waterfall or exit on the other side.

You can also climb up the waterfall using the rope attached. There’s a hidden pool at the top that you can visit before jumping back into the pool from a high rock. It’s a lot of fun and adrenaline! However, I would not attempt this unless there are locals there to show you the way. There are several spots where you could easily slip if you don’t know where to step! I was only able to go because a kind guide showed me where to step to avoid slipping and where to jump from.

Step 6: Head back

Swim back out of the cave, collect your belongings, and hike back to the beginning of the valley. Take in those gorgeous views one last time before the boat comes to pick you up (you might have to wait a few minutes – they just show up when there are people crossing from the other side). You’ve conquered Wadi Shab! Go reward yourself with a nice lunch!